Oct
25

miss(ive)

It’s been awhile since the last post. And quite a bit has occurred since then. Mostly, I went on mid-tour leave with my husband for two weeks thus had little to no Internet access. Which was kind of nice in some ways. It’s odd the things we think we can’t live without or that we would greatly miss if we didn’t have them readily available, and yet when they aren’t there they aren’t wholly missed.

Internet would be one of those things not totally missed if ready access wasn’t available. Sure I spend most of my waking hours on a computer in some capacity or another; either voraciously devouring the latest news, photography websites, educational sites, email and some social media time. But not having Internet access in our room at the resort allowed for more book reading time, more time outside when the weather allowed, more time spent playing angry birds and other games on my iPad that don’t require Internet.

I will say that it was wonderful to be able to eat and drink whatever I pleased (within the parameters of choices on menus of course). I truly missed having more good choices than not when it comes to food. The food here is decent by most standards, but as you all know, I’m a foodie and enjoy great flavors and experimenting and trying new foods. The same options every day in terms of food is not something I enjoy. On r&r we ate German food, Italian food, specific regional foods in Bavaria and Munich and Landstuhl and Trier. We sampled hand crafted beers from each of those areas many times over often finding brews that are available no where else but at the pub where they draw straight from the barrels. Regional wines were also on the menu and sampled with gusto! I miss(ed) food.

We also did some outdoor play; hiking and bicycling and a few other walks. I miss hiking! Simply getting outside for a purpose other than walking to the office or exercising for a specific amount of time or distance or participating in ruck marches. It’s beautiful here, don’t get me wrong. I even returned to the top of Mt. Ljuboten snow capped! But it’s the same scenery without the freedom to go to an undiscovered locale and walk it, to a place I’ve never been and see all there is to see from the tiniest mushroom to the highest granite face. I miss(ed) the outdoors.

Most of all though, the thing I missed the most by being on this deployment and doing the same thing day in day out and seeing and interacting with the same people…is my husband. It’s such a blessing to be who you are fully and completely. To know that you can be goofy, witty, funny, rude, speak your mind or not and you will be loved and heard no matter what you say or do is incredible. It’s also something I didn’t realize I missed until it was available again, sort of the reverse of the Internet I suppose. I don’t really miss anytime access to the Internet for a few weeks if it isn’t there…but I do miss being able to be me with the one I love. I’m not saying I have multiple personalities, but I do have to fulfill a role here that I don’t when I’m with him or the rest of my family.

One more item that was readily available while on vacation that just isn’t the same here – Starbucks coffee. I know, I know, but I like the lattes! We do have a coffee shop here, and it does make lattes, but they are awful. And I can’t ask for non-fat milk or for signature drinks like a pumpkin spice latte or an eggnog latte to tell me the seasons have changed to fall and Christmas-time. I have Kona coffee that I drink every morning and it is delicious! But I do miss driving through the Starbucks drive thru at 6 am, asking for a tall non-fat vanilla latte and sometimes a croissant and having the gentleman who hands me my coffee ask me by name how I am and what’s new. I like that. The familiarity of a chosen routine as opposed to one that is chosen for you. I miss making my own routine. I miss home.

Permanent link to this article: http://leilanids.com/2011/10/missive/

Oct
02

[deployed] military culture

Feeling nostalgic today, and a little home sick especially since it’s the first weekend of the annual International Balloon Fiesta back home. That is hands-down one of the best things about NM. What a neat conglomerate of cultures in one place for a common cause; to fly hot air balloons. For those of you who don’t know, the International Balloon Fiesta hosts balloonists and enthusiasts from around the world for a week each October in Albuquerque, NM. There is a particular environmental element called the Albuquerque Box that allows for perfect conditions for balloonists to lift off, rise and descend at will to make use of thermals that will take the balloons out and back to the launching grounds near the Rio Grande River. It’s an amazing experience to stand on the field before sunrise with enormous balloons laid out on the dew-soaked grass ready to be filled with hot air and take off when the sun rises. The number of visitors and languages spoken marvels the eyes and ears. The colors and shapes that hot air balloons are found in is staggering and are amazing feats of engineering.

multi color hot air balloonBut alas, no balloon fiesta for this lady this year. This first week of October brings the same routine as the day to day of the past nine months. The same culture that has surrounded me for that long with no break from it. No colorful hot air balloons and local pinon coffee and delicious hot breakfast burritos. No, it’s the same choices for bland food, the same conversations of how much people are ready to go home, the same options for foods on the local economy, the same meats and vegetables grilled each weekend. I still have my 100% Kona coffee Sunday though – a treat even if it is routine!

The military culture is one of a kind. And being in a deployed environment with the same people for nine months has made evident another sort of military culture than that of the National Guard back home. We see one another once a month back home so conversations for two days are full of catching up with each other about families, friends, new endeavors and military topics that affect us all. Here, it’s the same conversation each day with some people. The main questions are always asked in passing of ‘how are you, how is the family, have you gone on leave yet, if so how was it and how much more difficult was it to return to the deployment a second time at the end of the short r&r’? At this point in the deployment, the answer to those questions is all the same as they’ve been asked numerous times before.

My method to combat the doldrums of an end of tour? Ask different questions. Throw people off. They think I’ll ask how are you and how’s the family? Instead I try to ask what they are enjoying the most about being here, what they are missing the most from home, and what they plan to do first when they arrive back home. This line of questioning helps me not get too focused on ‘the end’ but rather stay in the moment and enjoy the time we have left here. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t want to stay deployed any longer than our tour is scheduled for. Good heavens I am ready to be home now! But that’s not an option so we might as well stay focused on the task at hand, sprinting to the finish line and preparing our replacements for the best possible hand off of tasks as we can. We owe it to them. We all had a very poor hand over from the group we took over for. They were 100% committed to going home as opposed to being committed even a bit to our success. In the military, we always say we try to make it ‘better for the next guy’.

So yes, I’m committed to the success of my replacements, but am also thoroughly tired of the culture that surrounds me on a daily basis. There are amazing individuals here and I have many new friends that I adore. But that’s true with any culture right? As a whole it may not jive well with an individual personality, but there are usually individuals that work well together.

Almost there. Oh, and I do get a break from this environment for a couple weeks starting a couple days when I head out on my r&r with my husband! Finally – new culture each day and all that brings. Looking forward to the new sights, new smells, new flavors, and time with someone I truly care about and enjoy.

Permanent link to this article: http://leilanids.com/2011/10/deployed-military-culture/

Sep
06

international cook off

bowl of figs, carrots, berriesWhat an adventure!

While everyone here in Kosovo is counting down the days left on deployment (literally), I’m just trying to enjoy what’s here for us. Who knows, I may never be back in this region, though I certainly hope I will travel this way again.

Our local morale, welfare and recreation gurus hosted an International Cook Off competition yesterday. There were three teams from the U.S., and teams from Croatia, Slovenia, Greece, Romania, and Poland. I absolutely loved being able to sample regional foods cooked by those who grew up eating them! What a treat.

First our Americans. All foods were cooked on grills or outside flames in some way or another by every contestant. So, one of the American teams made pork ribs and steaks with a honey glaze spiced with pepper. The ribs were very tasty, though it gave a new meaning to calling them ‘ribs’ – they stick right to ‘em!
Another American team was made up of fellow New Mexicans who brought a taste of the Southwest to the other side of the world and tried their hand at spanish rice, refried beans, fajitas cooked on a disco, and battered and fried green chile strips made with local green chiles. They were very tasty – could have eaten green chile strips all day! The other American team was mostly folks from our Aviation crew and the leader has been cooking for a very long time. He made an amazing pulled beef with homemade barbecue sauce, vegetables with great seasoning and my favorite, an apple crisp all on the grill.

Ok, the Polish group also grilled meats on sticks in aluminum foil with light spices, mostly herbs. They also made incredibly tasty stuffed bell peppers on the grill! They peeled them before stuffing them with sausage and then wrapped them in foil and ‘baked’ over the coals for awhile. Stuffed grilled peppers on a plate cut with a knife So good! The other dish that was absolutely scrumptious were their potatoes. The potatoes themselves were perfectly cooked, but then they added a sour cream, parsley, buttery topping and they came close to heaven!

The Greeks made grilled meats also and I do believe theirs were the juiciest, softest cuts. They also grilled feta cheese. Yep, grilled feta cheese. One of the chefs said they wrap it in foil and allow it to simmer in some olive oil and spices on the coals which creates an infused feta as well as a crisper outside to it. I am a HUGE fan of cheese, and especially feta, so from an experienced fromage tester…this was truly excellent.

I was told by the Slovenians and Croatians that the main difference between their cooking is the type of oil used. The Slovenians use pumpkin seed oil and the Croatians olive oil. Yes, pumpkin seed oil. I guess I gushed enough about the delicious nature of the Slovenians’ tomato, onion, garlic salad swimming in pumpkin seed oil that I ended up being gifted a container of it! Dinner here I come. It was so generous of the Slovenian chef. Lesson learned, try not to covet another’s salad too loudly or you may end up with a bunch. These two nations also made grilled meats with their own pile of spices and visual flair. two plates of grilled meats with tomatoes and cheeseThe Croatians made a delicious stew with a base of beer and who knows what else in a big pot hanging from a tripod over a pit of flames. It was similar to green chile stew in taste but with the added kick of the beer and a few spicy peppers.

And finally, the Romanian crew. What a vibrant group of friendly cooks. It seemed as though they had their meal down to a science! Even though there were many many dishes, they grilled eggplant and red and yellow peppers first, then skewers of chicken and onions and peppers. In addition, they made skewers of figs and spicy sesame covered shrimp and peppers – what a delicious combination. The sticky sweet almost gel-like inside of the fig with a crisp skin caused by the heat next to the spicy seafood is a flavor explosion like none other! Wow! The eggplant ended up diced finely on a plate with raspberries and blackberries meant to be spread on fresh bread, but honestly it was great all alone. They also made grilled polenta balls stuffed with their local smoked cheese. platter of grilled purple liver resting on roasted red peppers topped with a figYesterday was the first time I ate liver. Yes, first time ever. I figured it’s international food day and if there’s ever a good time to try a food it’s at the hands of those who seem to have total control over our food sources. It was grilled, and served on a plate of roasted red peppers with some sesame seeds on it. I ate a cube. Chewed it for a bit. Tried to swallow and had to try again. But got it down. The flavor was quite good at first, but after breaking up the cube and allowing the juices to begin to flow down my throat…something caught me, some flavor or smell or feel. I’m not sure what exactly. But the way I figure it, I had the best liver out there and only cared for it a bit so not really something I’ll be purchasing vast quantities of anytime in the future.
For dessert, the Romanians made another form of a polenta ball grilled but with a full delicious juicy plum inside wrapped up in a sweeter cheese, almost like a mascarpone. Best dish – wonderful melding of the grainy polenta with the smooth cheese and burst of fresh fruit.

I have to note that I was also to taste one of the absolute best fruits I think I’ve ever had. Fresh, seedy, unimaginably bright figs. The first one was literally shoved in my face by one of my new Romanian comrades, but the second and third I politely asked for. I don’t think I’ve seen them in the states like they are here, but wow, what a bright happy taste.

Ah, the camaraderie, the food, the smells and languages called amongst the cooks. This is what this deployment is all about – the international sharing of one of the fundamental aspects of what culture is – food.

(For more photographs of food and chefs, go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/kfor-14/ )

Permanent link to this article: http://leilanids.com/2011/09/international-cook-off/

Sep
03

texture pix

Watermelon, bananas, dried fruits, fruitsSo I thought of a new way to use this blog more often and share some of the amazing sights on this deployment with you. I have really gotten into photographing the little things i.e. tiny bugs, the pistil and stamens of flowers, grasses and numerous other interesting textures.

I thought it might be fun to post these photos, maybe every other day or so, and have you guess what they are. For example, today’s post is relatively obvious, but what are the other elements in the photograph, what is the setting outside the visible lines of the edges, etc?

Have fun guessing!

Permanent link to this article: http://leilanids.com/2011/09/texture-pix/

Aug
16

fire power

After nearly eight months of carrying a side arm strapped to my hip with magazines of ammunition on the opposite, I got to fire rounds through a weapon. Two weapons. Neither of them U.S. Army made. Thanks to our German military brethren, we at Camp Bondsteel have the privilege of vying for the coveted German Proficiency Badge. It is of course a shortened version as all the sporting events are not possible in this location nor do we have the allotted months of time to accomplish them all.

We do however get to participate in 4 sporting events – the shot put, long jump, 100m sprint, and 2000m run. I did a few of them this past Saturday and spent this evening reliving middle school track and field trying to remember the pacing and steps for a long jump.

But back to the weapons. For the proficiency badge we have to do the sporting events, fire the German HK pistol and their machine gun hitting so many targets in just two tables of fire with no practice, and then complete a 12k ruck march Sunday.
The HK pistol is great to shoot! Fires easier than our Beretta, is lighter, and must be accurate because I hit the targets ten times out of eleven. One firing table is 5 rounds standing up hitting three targets. The second table is 6 rounds, in two targets, from the prone, kneeling and then standing positions. Easy.

The machine gun on the other hand is a beast! Awesome to shoot, much like our 240B (granted I’ve only had the opportunity to shoot the U.S. Army machine gun a couple times). The targets for this weapon were hidden in trees, buildings, grass, and shrubbery on a flat painted plane and they were dark targets on a dark background. Very hard to see. And you must hit a small circle within a larger circle the size of CD a number of times. Not easy.

Two events completed, one to go and then I’ll be able to wear a German Army badge on my U.S. Army dress uniform. Nice.
And to top it all off, my box of 505 green chile arrived yesterday so I’m eating some mac ‘n cheese with green chile…almost like home.

Permanent link to this article: http://leilanids.com/2011/08/fire-power/

Aug
08

flija

woman making traditional Kosovo Albanian dish called flijaLocal foods in Kosovo are a treat for my Western palate. I recently attended the opening of the rural tourism industry in the Novo Brdo municipality in Kosovo. There are B&Bs, an ancient walled city or Kalaja (fortress) named the Artane Castle, hiking opportunities, ATV tours, paintball, and a number of local chefs willing to awaken your taste buds to dishes that have been around as long as the castle!

One of the foods specific to this region, and locals say specific to the Kosovo Albanian population, is fli or flija. It’s written both ways all over the internet and menus and signs around Kosovo, so I’ll use both.

The traditional (and really only) method of cooking flija is women’s work and quite time consuming. A batter of flour, sour milk and some salt is mixed together and a bottom layer poured onto a round pan that sits on hot coals. This layer is cooked with a layer of local cheese the consistency of cottage cheese (but smoother and tastes much better) on top of it for about ten minutes or more. Another layer of batter is carefully spooned onto the bottom layer in a striped pattern leaving open every other wedge from the outer rim of the pan toward the inner. Another layer of cheese, and cover the pan with a lid called a “sac” or a metal domed lid that has been heating in its own layer of coals. Cover the lid with coals, let it all bake for another ten minutes. Continue layering in the striped pattern and baking until there are a number of layers, usually about 4 or 5, of batter and cheese. The flija is served in wedges with cheese, pickled vegetables, yoghurt, sour cream, honey or any other topping. It is an incredibly dense dish and a small amount serves to fill you up. I like it with the yellow peppers/cheese mixture I talked about in the previous post. The sample I had the tourism celebration was the sweetest tasting yet, but maintained a firm texture akin to a thick pancake cooked through, only much more dense.
Aferdita Vllasaliu-Ibrahimi making flija outdoors
It was so neat to see flija made by Ms. Aferdita at the celebration of a municipality standing up its tourism industry. There is so much to see and do and taste here! I’ve said for awhile now that if the tourism infrastructure can grow and stabilize, Kosovo would get a lot of tourists.

I’m sure there are recipes online for making flija, but honestly I believe it’s one of those dishes that can only truly be tasted while standing outside, around the makeshift oven, chatting with the expert chef, a summer breeze cooling you, ancient castle walls looming above your shoulders, a wedge of flija straight out of the pan from the fire to your mouth.
Men grilling on an outdoor stove in KosovoKosovo Albanian foods local to the area laid out on a table

Permanent link to this article: http://leilanids.com/2011/08/flija/

Jul
22

spice of life

As I sit here, listening to the sassy jazz stylings of Caro Emerald, sipping a non-alcoholic beer, I’m scouring my available resources to identify the heavenly dish I’m savoring. I’ve had it in a number of restaurants here in Kosovo, and found it at the deli counter in a grocery, but sadly I am unsuccessful at finding the name of the dish, much less its origins. Maybe you can help?
It starts with beautiful, blemish-free, slightly spicy yellow peppers. In one restaurant they were the size and shape of a Hatch Green Chile, but in other taste tests they are more pear shaped and smaller. The ones on my current dish are closer to a heart shape and began about the size of a billiards ball stretched into a more elongated form. They are left crunchy (thank heavens!) and whole with only the tops removed, seeds are still prevalent in the dish.

The sunny yellow peppers are swimming in a divine sauce that I honestly can’t fully identify. It has the heat of the peppers, tastes very light so I’m going to go with a yoghurt base. There has to be more to it! It can’t be so simple: spicy peppers and yoghurt. Not with this much flavor explosion in every single bite. Maybe some sour cream added to the sauce. It’s the consistency of pudding.
Oh well, maybe I’m not meant to figure out every mystery of the world of foods available in Kosovo. I suppose that may be what they mean by the spice of life; that sometimes it is the unknown or unidentifiable that keeps us coming back for more. That we may not be meant to learn every detail of life and have to just sit back, shove a forkful in, close your eyes, and absolutely love the dance in your mouth!

Permanent link to this article: http://leilanids.com/2011/07/spice-of-life/

Jul
16

snails

snails on yellow postIt’s hot and muggy here in Kosovo without much rain to justify the humidity. At the same time, and compared to last month, it’s pretty dry at the moment. With this dryness appears snails. Hundreds of them all over the place! But in locations I would not have thought to find snails. They are only slightly larger than pencil eraser size, but they are stuck in clumps to thistle stems, yellow posts and traffic cones. These are my favorite – why in the world are snails attached to an element that doesn’t seem to retain any moisture? I suppose they don’t need as much moisture as I thought they did. They are pretty little creatures: chalk white with swirls of caramel and brown. I wonder how they taste?snails on an orange traffic cone
The other insects still buzzing around the camp are little bees. One landed in the purple thistle flowers that are abundant here and the contrast of the vibrant color of the flower and the darker body of the small bee were begging me to take a shot.purple thistle flower and yellow and black bee
So it really is the details that surround us that make things worthwhile. I see those snails everyday walking to and from errands, and find myself detouring toward the same traffic cone to check on how many there are each day.

Permanent link to this article: http://leilanids.com/2011/07/snails/

Jul
08

cooking

What is it about cooking? The act of creating something edible is soothing for me. At the end of a long day cooking is a way for me to relax and unwind.

Now, “cooking” while deployed with no stove, no oven, and a single source of heat that is nearly impossible to regulate with only one pot is a recipe for adventure. Choices tend to be between soups, pasta or anything else that can be boiled. It’s also hard when there is no option of running to the grocery store to grab whatever ingredients are needed for the edible creation in my head. The lack of fresh – fruits, vegetables, bread – is really tough for me as I thoroughly enjoy in season eating. But alas, a girls’ gotta eat and thus I have been forced to get creative.

The old standbys still work – mac n cheese every once in awhile and pasta with sauce. I’ve probably eaten more homemade vegetable soup in the past few months than I do in a year or two at home! But with care packages from home stuffed with vegetable bouillon, and dehydrated vegetables, soup is a pretty good option.

Cooking is certainly one of the things I miss most being on deployment. The separation of living area of a home and a cooking area is something we might take for granted. The simple convenience of a food preparation space and running water in the same room as that cooking area might be another. I also really miss being able to see a delectable recipe in a magazine or on an iPad app and run to the grocery, purchase the ingredients, and make something delicious for those I care about. Maybe that’s the other major element of cooking for me, being able to share the finished product with my husband or family and friends.

I will be home again someday, and I will cook often. Until then, I’ll continue to experiment in my deployed living space/kitchen and apologize to my roommates for the smell of tuna fish patties.

Permanent link to this article: http://leilanids.com/2011/07/cooking/

Jul
03

dancing in Kosovo

I have had the incredibly fortunate opportunity to work with a group of members of the Kosovo Security Forces (KSF) for the last few months on a collaborative project. This has allowed me the chance to get to know seven Kosovo Albanians on more of personal level.

As part of this group, myself and one of the other U.S. Soldiers were invited to a celebration hosted by the KSF to mark a milestone of training.

As always, as soon as we arrived at the base, the first order of business was coffee. After coffee, the senior leader of the group showed us the base that he is in charge of. It was easy to tell how proud he is of the area and the members of the KSF that work there. It was one of those days when you feel that you did the right thing by making the effort to simply show up and show an interest.

We toured the base, chatting the whole time. Finally it was time for lunch and we were all famished due to the smells of barbecue wafting over the base. We went inside the dining facility and took a place at one of the long tables. No chairs. Place settings, but no chairs. Oh well. No need. There was loud, lively music playing and a very short speech commemorating the event was delivered then platters full of grilled meats were brought out.

There were platter of bread, plates of cabbage/tomato/cucumber, and the platters of meats which included beef and chicken in a couple forms. After the food was mostly consumed the staff brought out some of the local farmers’ cheese which is delicious! It’s akin to a feta cheese with a similar texture but a bit saltier.

As I said, there was lively music pumped into the dining room by a deejay. The music was Turkish with Albanian words intermixed – another form of culture fusion. It didn’t take long before a line of dancers had begun to snake around the tables. Hand in hand, the men and women kept rhythm with a few simple steps and arms in the air held up by their neighbor. I snapped a few shots of the procession before I was grabbed up and swallowed by the line of dancers.

I find that I am somewhat of a spectacle here – the U.S. uniform, weapon on my hip, not a large person, a female soldier who can certainly be bossy and is often ‘in charge.’ It was no different there! I don’t know how many of the KSF members had cameras and phones out snapping photo of myself and my fellow soldier. It was fun though – I danced in Kosovo with members of the Kosovo Security Forces during a celebration for their success.

Food and culture are intertwined and this is apparent during every celebration I’ve been to here. There are always local dishes offered with flavors of whatever culture is celebrating. What a fusion of life.

Permanent link to this article: http://leilanids.com/2011/07/dancing-in-kosovo/

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